Where to ski in France this season

With its high, snow-sure resorts, charming Savoyard villages, easy access and world-class cuisine, France remains one of Europe’s most popular ski spots. For British travellers, it’s regularly the number one ski destination every year. Research by the Ski Club of Great Britain shows 59% of British skiers skied in France last winter, up from 51% the previous year.

Large ski areas and high altitudes are at the top of skiers’ wish lists, and France delivers. It’s home to many of the world’s superlative resorts, including Les Trois Vallées with 370 miles of skiing and a top height of 3,230m (10,600ft), and the likes of Portes du Soleil, Paradiski, Les Sybelles and Tignes-Val d’Isere coming in close behind it. And these are not places that rest on their laurels. Investment is being ploughed into these resorts to keep facilities up to date. Lift networks are bring future-proofed, too, transitioning to low-carbon energy and departure and arrival points that are, where possible, within the rising snowline.

Geneva, in Switzerland, is the biggest hub for most French Alpine resorts, and is a 1hr 40min flight from the UK; Chambery, Lyon and Grenoble are a similar distance. Between them, you can find flights from many European airports. Though still not operating at pre-Covid levels, the ‘snow train’ (currently a seasonal Eurostar service operating weekly from London via Lille to several destinations in the northern French Alps) is a viable option at least for travellers in the south of England. Eurotunnel and numerous ferry links extend the no-fly options for British skiers to France.

Once you’re there, the French Alps offer a huge choice of accommodation, from five-star hotels to budget self-catering. And it has options for longer stays as well as short breaks — something that’s not always easy to find in other Alpine countries where resorts might still cater to the traditional Saturday-to-Saturday package deal model. Combine this with its reputation for top-notch food and wine, widely spoken English and a growing care for the mountain environment, and it’s abundantly clear why France is such a winner for winter holidays among Brits. Here’s our pick of the best French mountain resorts for this winter.

Best for groupsThis sprawling southern French Alps resort, operating on 100% renewable energy since 2011, comes with excellent eco credentials. Its small towns are dotted along a valley below a wooded ski area, connected by an efficient lift system and a free shuttle bus service. With a restaurant-led apres-ski scene, Serre Chevalier is geared to bon viveur, grown-up skiers. About 15 minutes’ drive away, the walled town of Briançon has fortifications that form part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is home to varied dining options, bars and shops — great for groups formed not just of die-hard skiers. 

Best for intermediatesSet in Les Trois Vallées, the world’s biggest ski area, Méribel offers an unrivalled experience for intermediates. There’s 370 miles of skiing — much of which is graded blue (42%) and red (32%) — spread over three main valleys containing resorts of different characters. For glitz, choose Courchevel, or for serious snow-sure skiing head for the lofty heights of Val Thorens (7,500ft), while quaint little Saint-Martin-de-Belleville has quiet charm and Les Menuires has family-friendly facilities. And set right in the middle, the attractive wood-and-stone village of Méribel comes with good apres-ski, high-end catered chalets and great connections to the whole region.

Best for novicesThis traditional, sunny resort has a relaxed vibe, with wide-open pistes and excellent facilities for first-timers. There are two lifts for beginners that don’t require a pass — the 650ft Manessier drag-lift from the village centre and the Lutins carpet lift at Les Eucherts. And if you want to test your skills beyond these areas, La Rosière has a three-hour beginner’s ski pass for five ski lifts that serve only green slopes. Once you progress, there’s the option of skiing into La Thuile, over the border into Italy, to reward yourself with a pizza and pasta lunch. It’s also just 35 minutes from the train station in Bourg St Maurice.

Best for couplesCharming and car free at its core, Megève is a great spot for a romantic getaway. Just over an hour’s drive from Geneva airport, it has well-placed accommodation on or beside the pistes. There are numerous top-quality restaurants for special meals out — the latest of which is Le Prieuré, helmed by much-lauded chef Emmanuel Renaut — as well as horse-drawn sleigh rides in the snow.

Best for familiesMuch of the accommodation in this high, snow-sure resort (Plagne Centre) and satellite hamlets of Plagne Bellecote, Plagne Soleil, Plagne Villages, Plagne Aime 2000, Belle Plagne and Plagne 1800 is ski in, ski out. The great majority of slopes in the vast Paradiski area (which La Plagne shares with the neighbouring resorts of Les Arcs) are blue, all accessed by a quick and efficient lift system. Each village has nursery slope areas, often with drag lifts or magic carpets that don’t require the purchase of a lift pass. Kids under five ski free, and there are reduced lift pass fees for children between five and 12.

Best for advanced skiersThis big central-southern resort stands alone in the Oisans region. Alpe d’Huez Grand Domaine Ski, to give it its proper name, has 155 miles of pistes and basks in a much-touted 300 days of sunshine each year. Along with some challenging off-piste, the resort lays claim to the world’s longest black run, La Sarenne, which is a thigh-burning 10 miles. There’s also Le Tunnel at the top of Pic Blanc (10,800ft), cut through the rock to lead to a heady 7,200ft vertical drop. Looking for an extra challenge? Head to nearby La Grave, whose slopes suit experienced skiers and boarders, and holders of an Alpe d’Huez six-day pass receive a 25% discount on a day pass.

Best for off-pisteThis Tarentaise Valley village has a family friendly reputation but can be great for off-piste skiing, too. Catering largely to learners, Sainte-Foy’s off-piste remains crowd-free. There are lift-accessed off-piste itineraries and runs reached via a short ski tour, including the iconic north face of the Foglietta, along with Le Col du Granier, Couloir Doudou and Col d’Argentière, to name just a few. Sainte-Foy’s proximity to Val d’Isère and Tignes offers extra variety for the adventure-hungry, and it’s another ski resort that’s easily accessed by train.

Best for apres-skiThe French coined the term, which literally means ‘after-ski’, and one of the best places in the Alps to enjoy apres-ski at its finest is Val d’Isère — home to the legendary Dick’s Tea Bar, the very first La Folie Douce (the original ‘nightclub on the slopes’), as well as Cocorico, Bananas and many, many more. The fun really ramps up at the end of a long day’s skiing in this party town. The pistes offers plenty for every level of skier, including experts, and it’s an ideal spot to reach by train; Bourg St Maurice, a Snow Train stop, is just 45 minutes away while Geneva airport is a journey of more than three hours’ drive.

Best for nature-loversOne for skiers whose idea of ‘apres’ is bird-watching, the quiet Maurienne Valley, on the southern border with Italy, is little known among skiers outside France, and is unspoiled by the criss-cross of massive lift infrastructure. This attractive medieval village is the best known in the valley, thanks to its association with the Tour de France, but its quiet slopes are also a haven for wildlife. Set just nine miles south of the Vanoise National Park, Valloire comes with some 90 pistes — the majority of which are intermediate and novice-friendly — and backcountry where you can expect to see chamois, marmots, ibex and choughs.

Best for snowboardersSeen by many as the European capital of snowboarding, Avoriaz is home to a full-blown superpipe, The Stash (an ‘eco park’ with wooden features over almost a mile) and Lil’Stash for kids. Whether learning the ropes, finessing tricks or enjoying the off-piste, boarders are made welcome here in every form. The Portes Du Soleil area, of which Avoriaz is the highest part (top lift is 7,450ft), is huge — with 360 miles of slopes in resorts across both sides of the Franco-Swiss border.